Guide

What is a second wine in Bordeaux?

Not a lesser appellation, not a cheap copy: a decision made vat by vat.


The short answer

A second wine is a selection, not a different place. It comes from the same estate, usually under the same appellation as the grand vin (the estate’s top wine), and is made from the lots left out of it. No law defines it. The estate does.

The same soil, a different decision

The grand vin is not a plot. It is a choice made after the harvest, vat by vat, and everything the estate declines goes somewhere. Most of it goes to the second wine.

The second wine is the second selection, not the last. What is left after it goes to a third wine, where the house makes one (Latour (opens in a new tab) makes Le Pauillac (opens in a new tab) de Château Latour), or leaves the estate without its name.

It carries the same appellation because it comes from the same legally mapped vineyard. Les Forts de Latour, Château Latour’s second wine, is a Pauillac; Pavillon Rouge, Château Margaux’s, is a Margaux (opens in a new tab); and the second wine of a Saint-Émilion (opens in a new tab) classified growth is usually a Saint-Émilion Grand Cru.

The rank does not travel with it. A second wine never carries "Grand Cru Classé" or the 1855 growth, which belong to the château and its grand vin.

The lots that fall into it are usually one of 4 things. Three are young vines not yet making the first wine, plots the estate rates below its best soil, and a vat that is good but does not fit the blend. The fourth is press wine (squeezed from the skins after fermentation) that the estate leaves out.

Older than the brand names

In 1845 William Franck, a Bordeaux broker, recorded that Cantemerle (opens in a new tab) made 120 to 130 tonneaux of wine a year, not counting 10 tonneaux of second wine sold on the spot for local drinking. A tonneau is 900 liters, so that second wine came to some 12,000 bottles a year, while the grand vin sailed for Holland.

The names came later. Pavillon Rouge has carried its name since the 1906 vintage.

What the name promises

Nothing, legally. The second wine has no definition in French or European law. It is a brand the estate owns, and the only rules it answers to are those of its appellation.

An estate may create one, rename it, or stop making it. Château Franc Mayne (opens in a new tab) renamed its second wine from Les Cèdres to Ilex, and Château Nénin (opens in a new tab), bought by the Delon family in 1997, sells its second wine as Fugue de Nénin.

The cheapest way to taste an estate’s hand

A second wine is the cheapest way to taste an estate’s hand: the same cellar, the same people, the same vintage, with the best lots taken out. What it teaches is the house, one selection down.

It is not a discount version of the grand vin. The usual argument is that estates which raised the share of the harvest going into the second wine raised the quality of both. By the same argument, an estate that became stricter about the first wine made a second wine that carries more of the estate than it used to.

Names that only look like second wines

Some names that look like second wines are not. An estate may make a wine from other vines, in another appellation, under a name built from its own. Le Blanc de Duhart-Milon (opens in a new tab) is a Bordeaux Blanc, not a Pauillac; G d’Estournel, from a vineyard in the northern Médoc (opens in a new tab), is a Médoc, not a Saint-Estèphe (opens in a new tab).

The label says which. The appellation on it settles the question every time.

Where to go next

Sources: Commission Delegated Regulation (EU) 2019/33 of 17 October 2018 · Château Franc Mayne, Ilex de Franc Mayne · The Wine Cellar Insider, Château Franc Mayne · The Wine Cellar Insider, Château Nénin · Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux · Château Latour, Le Pauillac de Château Latour · William Franck, Traité sur les vins du Médoc, 2nd edition, Bordeaux, 1845, as quoted in Case File 06, Château Cantemerle · Decanter, Château Duhart-Milon, Blanc, Bordeaux Blanc, 2023 · Cos d’Estournel, G d’Estournel